Mystical Magical Dinan

There are so many wonderful itineraries around the Northern coast of Brittany, France, that it's best to find a convenient base from which to explore. We chose Dinan.

One of the most magical medieval towns in France, Dinan sits about 250 feet above the Rance River and is surrounded by Brittany's oldest and most extensive ramparts. Monks originally settled the town in the 9th century. Because of its strategic location on a river that links to the sea, Dinan flourished as a harbor trading linen, leather and wood. As it prospered, merchants built a multitude of fine half-timbered homes, and religious orders founded churches and convents.

Suffering little damage from the many wars in the region, the town is a charming place to discover. And one of the best places to start is the Tourist Office at 9 Rue du Chateau, which offers free brochures highlighting three walking tours. (For two Euros - about $2.50, you can purchase a detailed guide.)

The "Old Dinan Tour" took us along rambling cobblestone streets to the original town built along the river below. Founded 1,000 years ago, the old port town was the center of activity where merchants arrived to trade. Along the way, we stopped at the Clock Tower, a wooden belfry dating from the 15th century. The tower rises up almost 100 feet and offers a fantastic view of the city, river and valleys beyond.

The "Religious Treasures Tour" includes a stop at the Benedictine Convent (17th century), the Franciscan Convent (15th century) and the magnificent Saint-Sauveur Basilica, which was built in the 13th century as the result of a vow made by a crusader whose heart is preserved inside.

The "Tour of the Ramparts" starts at the 14th century castle (now home to the Museum of Dinan). The entire structure consists of two massive towers linked by a curtain wall. The tour continues along other parts of the ramparts - its many towers and gates - offering splendid panoramic views of the old port and viaduct below.

Each tour took us past quaint plazas surrounded by colorful 15th and 16th century timbered homes. Throughout the old town are numerous cafes, restaurants and bakeries. Artisan and weaver shops used by locals intermingle with tourist shops selling ceramics, lace and regional foods. Two of our favorite local shops: Espirit de Campagne (21 bis Rue de la Mittre) sells delightful hand-painted enamel signs with address numbers, plus ceramic roosters, kitchen décor and candle chandeliers. Nuances (10 Rue de la Mittre) has some wonderful colorful pottery, lamps and garden accessories.

Somewhat of a magnet for British and French tourists, Americans have yet to discover Dinan in mass. Which makes it a wonderful place to discover on your own.

Where To Stay: There's no better location than the Hotel Le d'Avaugour, 1 Place du Champ (www.avaugourhotel.com/). The 19th century building, built on the ramparts, has 21 rooms and three suites. The gardens in the back overlook the ancient walls and promenade and it's right across the street from the square where the local market takes place every Thursday morning. The staff is very pleasant and helpful in mapping out itineraries around Brittany. Rooms, while smallish, are very comfortable and reasonable. (Be sure though to book a room overlooking the garden. The view is delightful. And the front rooms, facing the street, are quite noisy.) Rooms range from 83 to 176 Euros (about $100 - $220) depending on season and location. Breakfast, included, is a splendid spread of breads, cheeses, cold cuts, cereals and fresh fruit.

Where To Eat: We waited until the last day in Dinan to taste the region's most popular dish: galettes. Probably because the English translation is an unappetizing "buckwheat pancakes." Actually galettes are crepes made with buckwheat but then stuffed with anything you could possibly think of. We tried a traditional one with melted cheese, ham, mushrooms and tomatoes and then one more exotic, piled with fresh salad, goat cheese and mussels. There's no better place to try galettes than Creperie Anna (7 Rue de la Poissonerie). Just down the street is La Lycorne ("The Unicorn"), which specializes in mussels cooked 22 ways, and Pierrades, a plate of vegetables, potatoes, salad and raw meat you cook on a hot stone.

For more information on Dinan, visit www.dinan-tourisme.com/.

Tomorrow: The charming Provence village of Fontaine du Vaucluse