Frankfurt's Charms

I'd been to Frankfurt once before but then I'd only popped in overnight on my way to someplace else. This time I stayed a few days and was happy I did. Notwithstanding the multitude of young and old skyscrapers, bank buildings and stores - after all Frankfurt-am-Main is often referred to as "Mainhattan" - the city is charming. You just have to know where to look.

Frankfurt's Christmas Market.

In December, it's easy. Just stroll, as we did, to the Christmas market in the financial district. The market's one of biggest and oldest in Germany, dating back to 1393. Walking around, you experience all the sights, sounds and smells of a Frankfurt Christmas. The entire Romerberg old town center is transformed into a Disney-like fantasy. Around the square, 17th century timbered homes are outlined in white lights. In the center is a huge Christmas tree. The crisp wintry air carries the scent of roasted chestnuts and gingerbread cookies, while in the background you hear the sound of chiming church bells and Christmas songs song by a local choir.

Some mulled wine, a Christmas tradition, kept me warm as I searched the market looking for treasures. This market sells everything from fur-lined gloves (I bought a pair) to wood-carved toys (bought these too) to "Bethmaennchen," miniature candy figures made from marzipan that have been a part of Germany's Christmas culinary tradition for centuries.

But the city's not all Christmas market. There are some great sites for tourists, too. Like Goethehaus, the historic home of Germany's great poet, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, and St. Paul's Church, the seat of the first German National Assembly, and the Imperial Cathedral, where, since 1253, Germany's kings, as well as ten emperors, have been crowned.

Frankfurt's also a city of museums devoted to all things visual from art to photography to money to history to icons to natural history. One of the best is the Staadelsches Kunstinstitut which includes works by Vermeer, Rembrandt, Monet and Renoir.

At the Hochster Porcelain Manufacturer, we watched designers and painters create custom-made porcelain items and at Apfelwein-Degustation, we saw how the local apple wine is made - there are actually several types from dry to sweet. And yes, you can definitely get a buzz from apple wine.

In between stops, we tasted the foods that have made Germany so famous, including bratwurst with sauerkraut and roasted pork with red cabbage and potato dumplings.

It was fun to rediscover Frankfurt. It truly is a city of surprises, and pleasures.

Where To Stay: Maritim Hotel Frankfurt, next to the historic Festhalle (exhibition center), and a short subway ride to all the tourist areas. The Maritim is one of the largest hotels in Frankfurt with 543 spacious guest rooms - half are non-smoking. Amenities include good-sized bathrooms and luxurious down comforters and pillows on very comfortable beds. Plus fabulous international breakfasts (included in the price), a fitness center and parking. Rates are from $175 to $400 depending on season and accommodations.

- Judi Janofsky