Editor's Note: While in Europe, travel writers Judi Janofsky and Rich Steck filed daily features as part of a virtual three-week grand tour.

Perched on a cliff overlooking the bay of Naples, Sorrento is a bustling town filled tourists who flock here every summer, using it as base for exploring the famed Amalfi Coast. From here, you can take a boat to the charming Isle of Capri, a train to famous Pompeii and a bus, or car, if you dare, along the serpentine coast road that leads to the spectacular towns of Positano, Amalfi and Ravello.

View of Vesuvius from Hotel Vittoria.

We're staying at the Hotel Desiree, a quick drive (or 15-minute walk) up hill from the town center. Modestly priced at 85O ($99), the Desiree sits atop a cliff overlooking the sea. If you ask for one of the four rooms with a terrace and a view, you won't be disappointed. While it would not be considered a luxury hotel, it does have the nicest, most helpful staff we've encountered in Italy. Both Corinna and Vincent took lots of time to tell us where to go in the area, how to get there, the best things to see, even pulling out hand-drawn maps and tracing our route. It was like having our own concierge. The hotel also has access to a small private beach, although the slow, creaky elevator that descends through the cliff can be rather frightening. (Phone or fax: 011-081-878-1563)

If you'd rather be in town and price is not an object, stay at the 19th century Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, (www.exvitt.it) where you drive through their lovely private gardens before reaching the villa-style hotel that sits on the bay. Here is where Enrico Caruso chose to die, where Oscar Wilde, Princess Margaret and Sophia Loren also have stayed. Where you can dine on a terrace with one of the best views in Sorrento. (From 260 to 1815O [$304 - $2121].)

Sorrento has some good shopping, especially along the Via San Cesareo and Piazza Tasso (both are packed with shoppers on weekends). The rabbit warren of little pedestrian streets in the area are lined with specialty shops selling everything from Limoncello to lemon soaps to lemon design ceramics (Sorrento grows some of the biggest lemons in the world). However, with the dollar so low against the euro, there are no bargains. Disappointing since some of the ceramics made in the area are quite exquisite. Console yourself with an inexpensive local treat: a rich and creamy double-scoop gelato on a cone.

After a day of exploring the area, head out to one of several good restaurants including the traditional Antica Trattoria (Via P.R. Giuliani 33), the pizza-lover's Aurora O'Canonico (Piazza Tasso 7) or the rustic Zi'ntonio (Via Luigi de Maio 11). Or try Restaurant La Tonnarel next to the Hotel Desiree, where huge windows inside open to one of the best views in Sorrento.

Tomorrow we'll explore the ancient city of Pompeii.

- Judi Janofsky and Rich Steck